Guye Peak - Southeast Gully (Winter)

Fil and I climbed the southeast gully on Guye Peak on Saturday. The bottom half of the gully was in the inversion cloud layer and was in great condition — nice alpine ice for the most part once it gets steep. Great sticks with our tools. We soloed it without much difficulty.

Roped up for the second half and climbed 4 pitches. The chockstone that some people seem to have trouble passing was more or less covered in snow. Our 3rd pitch ended up being on crappy wet and snow covered rock — completely avoidable if you traverse right out of the gully and climb above (on snow) when you see no more snow/ice to climb.

The higher we got the wetter the snow became but the angle mellowed out so it was manageable.

Gear

Light alpine rack + a few screws, knife blades, and pickets. 70m rope. Used every form of protection at least once.

Approach

Parked in the Alpental parking lot and followed Ober and then Unter Strasse roads up above Sahlie Ski Club.